TRANSFORMATION OF AESTHETIC ORNAMENTS IN MANGKUNEGARAN PALACE ANCIENT NOBLE TOMBS INTO THE "HAYU" BATIK MOTIF IN INDONESIA

Abstract

The Hayu batik motif is a recent innovation in Surakarta’s traditional art, developed by the University Centre of Excellence Javanologi (PUI Javanologi), Universitas Sebelas Maret, in collaboration with artisans on the slopes of Mount Lawu. Inspired by the royal tombs of the Mangkunegaran Palace, Hayu represents a Mahardika motif, an artistic expression of freedom that moves beyond conventional geometric, floral, faunal, or figurative patterns. This study employs a cultural semiotic and qualitative approach to examine how sacred imagery is transformed into a contemporary batik motif. The process integrates symbolic heritage with modern aesthetic sensibilities and shifts the image of tombs from associations with death, mysticism, and sacredness to notions of elegance, beauty, and novelty. Findings reveal that Hayu batik embodies three functional categories in the evolution of Solo batik: fashion (aesthetic and material prestige), ageman (ethical and intellectual aura), and rasukan (spiritual integration between values, clothing, and the wearer). It also exerts multilayered influences on its wearers: perbawa (sociological impact and status), kawibawan (psychological charisma and authority), and pangaribawa (spiritual refinement and transformative perception). Beyond its artistic breakthrough, Hayu batik represents cultural knowledge production and identity-making, showing how traditional symbols can be reinterpreted as part of the cultural commons.