Revealing Parelle d’Auvergne: LC-MS Characterization of Dyes in a Robe à la Circassienne

Abstract

Rare surviving examples of late eighteenth-century French dress are exceptional. The robe à la circassienne examined in this study is preserved in an unusually intact state, likely due to its small size, which limited its suitability for later wearers, and the rapid shift in fashion that further reduced incentives for alteration or reuse. Discrepancies between the garment’s present coloration, early cataloguing records, and a non-matching reproduction petticoat prompted an investigation into its original appearance. The dress features a ground fabric woven with a pink warp and white weft, accented by vertical multicolored stripes. Organic colorants were analyzed using liquid chromatography–diode array detection–quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-DAD-qToF-MS), and elemental composition was determined by X-ray fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy. The dark pink stripe contained safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), a highly fugitive dye. The blue and green stripes showed mixtures of weld (Reseda luteola), an indigoid dye (Indigofera spp.), and Brazilwood (Caesalpinia or Haematoxylum spp.), consistent with historical recipes for bronze and wood shades. Brazilwood and an orchil dye detected in the ground fabric suggest an original reddish-purple hue rather than the pale pink visible today. Arsenic found in the pink fabric and trim provides the first material evidence for the French orchil-dyeing process known as Parelle d’Auvergne. By integrating analytical results with historical dye recipes and curatorial records, this study proposes a hypothesis for the garment’s original appearance and demonstrates how combined scientific and historical approaches deepen our understanding of fragile textile artifacts and the factors that shaped their creation and survival.